How These Restaurants Cut Ties with Third-Party Delivery Services

American restaurants have been barreling toward a reckoning with third-party delivery apps for years. Last summer, the National Restaurant Association predicted that, for the first time, off-premise restaurant spending would outpace dine-in service. That fact made third-party apps and their marketing services more important and powerful than ever—even as grievances piled up. Restaurant owners have long complained about exorbitant commissions, hidden fees, and unapproved customer deals, and especially, their businesses being added to delivery apps without...