Carlos Delgado Replicates Peru’s Down-by-the-Docks Experience in D.C.

The day Carlos Delgado and I were scheduled to meet, he called to say he was running late due to a fish emergency.

And an emergency it was. Buried in one of his restaurants’ seafood deliveries that day was a shipment of grouper that wasn’t up to Delgado’s standards. It was a Saturday at the height of summer and his upstairs-downstairs D.C. restaurants—breezy Amazonia, with its menu of...