Squid Skips the Deep-Fryer for This Bright and Tender Starter at Boston’s Tonino

Chef Luke Fetbroth has a “no deep fryer” policy at Tonino. Not that he doesn’t appreciate fried foods, but he knows the smell would overwhelm his tiny restaurant in Boston’s Jamaica Plain neighborhood, “plus they’re a pain to take care of and oil is expensive,” he says (if you do use one, ...