Food

Squash, Fennel, and Brûléed Marshmallow Top this Autumn Danish at Bondir

“I like to treat each pastry just as I would a savory dish,” says Jason Bond, chef/owner of Bondir in Cambridge, Mass. When indoor dining was shut down this past March at his restaurant, Bond amped up his pastry offerings for takeout, including sourdough breads, hand-rolled croissants, and Danishes. “It seems to get people out of bed on the weekends, so I think they have been well-received," he notes. The chef's work-of-art rotation of pastries are inspired by the seasons, extra ingredients from other dishes, or preserved items he scores in the pantry (like candied rose petals he pickled two years ago that top his baklava croissant).

His Danishes are a byproduct of croissant dough cuttings he stacks flat and rolls into various Danish shapes. “The nature of many Danish shapes will hide a demi (second roll) in a way a traditional croissant shape will not,” says Bond. “Technical perfection is not the goal of a Danish...joy is the goal.” Those early risers jumping out of bed should find much joy in Bond’s latest fall-inspired Danish filled with roasted Vermont Long Pie squash purée and topped with a cinnamon and chile-spiced marshmallow that gets brûléed as a final step. “I grew up in the Midwest where squash and yams with marshmallow is a classic supper dish,” says Bond, of the Danish he finishes with roasted and salted seeds saved from the squash, mint, and bronze fennel and flowers. “It’s a variety of fennel that doesn’t produce a bulb, but makes sweet flowers and seeds." And, very pretty Danishes.

Liz Grossman is the Managing Editor of Plate.