It’s Time to Start Fermenting Your Risotto

We’ll happily welcome hearty bowls of risotto all day long, but sometimes our palates want more than one rich note. Chef de Cuisine Nico Cezar was going for comfort, as well as sweet, salty, sour, and savory goals with his koji risotto at D.C.'s Tonari, a Wafu restaurant specializing in dishes that combine Japanese and Italian flavors, ingredients, and techniques (think Wagyu meatballs with pomodoro and Nishiyama spaghetti, and...