How the Owners of Chicago's Thattu are Keeping their Keralite Dreams Alive After their Food Stall Shuttered

On a cold evening mid-January, I gathered with friends at a communal high-top inside the Chicago food hall Politan Row. It feels like a lifetime ago, but I remember—and definitely miss—sitting closely with our group at the square-shaped bar, mellow hip-hop in the background and a happy hour crowd buzzing between food vendors. We tore into light and spongy appam from Thattu, the food hall’s popular Keralite street food stall...