A Chef Finds Her Spirit and Home

I think I'll always remember my first trip to El Naranjo—11 years ago, while on a short vacation in Oaxaca with my mother. My marriage had just ended, so the trip was my mother’s way of doing a little checking in and care-taking over enchiladas and a little touring (she’s a great mom). To make things even more emotional, it was November 2001, so we were flying to another country while American airports were still filled with fresh-...