Can You Afford a Pastry Chef?

I had lunch with a friend yesterday, and since she’s opening a restaurant in about a month, much of the conversation centered around the restaurant world, including our shared fear that hospitality—simple warm, good service—has become obsolete, or at the very least, what you expect at that fancy restaurant you go to on your birthday. Which is another topic, and a painful one, because when did having people be nice to you become something...