BDSM Chicken Crunch and Other Lessons From CIA Worlds of Flavor

Last Sunday, while dining at Taiwanese Wenwen in Brooklyn, my husband took a bite of the restaurant’s fried chicken, and the skin and crust crackled so riotously, so dramatically, we both started to laugh with joy. I learned about Chef Eric Sze’s BDSM chicken (it stands for brined, deboned, and soy milk, folks) at this year’s...