Hot and Cold Oysters Share a Plate at Chicago’s Gavroche

If Owner Jason Chan had it his way, he’d serve oysters raw, poached, roasted, grilled, and wood-fired at his new restaurant Gavroche in Chicago’s Old Town. But instead of all the ways, for now, he’s focusing on two for his oyster special. “Oysters are like cilantro or lamb, people either love them or hate them, though it’s often more about texture than flavor,” says Chan, who opened the modern French...