At Sap Sua, Ni and Anna Nguyen Tell Their Story Through Modern Vietnamese Dishes

Look around the cozy, minimalist dining room at Sap Sua, and you might catch blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hints of Kobe Bryant. His autobiography is nestled amid the back-lit liquor bottles behind the bar, and a Kobe jersey is hidden inside a small skylight near the entrance. An homage to Ni Nguyen’s Orange County upbringing, it’s just one way the chef tells his story and creates connections at the Denver restaurant...