The Cheese Course Lightens Up

One of the most striking things about the 15-course tasting menu at Oriole, Noah Sandoval's just-opened restaurant in Chicago, is just how light 15 courses can feel. There's loads of flavor throughout the meal, from the vermouth sorbet-topped fraises des bois amuse to the unagi caramel-dressed foie gras to the lamb belly served with ramps and huckleberries, but Sandoval and his team maintain a light hand. That ethos is...