Swiss Cheesemakers Let Their Hair Down with Funkier Cheeses

Lisa Futterman is a cheesemonger, writer and killer prep cook.

Switzerland makes us think of holey cheese, Alpine meadows, cows with bells, and snowy mountain views. Tradition reigns, and new, innovative cheeses from the pros in Switzerland have been virtually non-existent until recently.

How come? Clearly the Swiss love convention, so much so that after World War I they created Schweizer Käseunion, a Swiss cheese union that controlled the industry by regulating prices and...