Food

Embracing Washoku in America

Chandra Ram

The germ of the idea for this issue came last spring, at the end of a dinner at SingleThread, one of the most interesting and exciting restaurants in America. At the end of the meal, I asked two of my fellow diners, Matthias Merges and Bill Kim, both of whom were chefs in Charlie Trotter’s infamously regimented kitchen, what they thought...