We Catch Some Smelt Before They're Gone

When it comes to spring menu specials, the greener, the better, but sometimes the seasonal seafood dishes outshine even the most beautiful asparagus, peas and ramps. At The Progress in San Francisco, the night smelt bar special gets just a light coating of tempura batter for “a thin crust that shatters, but has a nice crunch,” says Chef Stuart Brioza. When the tiny-but-tasty Mount Shasta river fish come in, Brioza...