Food

Turnips and Rye Hit the Fire at The Charter Oak

When in doubt, order the weirdest-sounding dish on the menu. It won’t always work (cough, blue cheese ice cream), but it’s a good way to check out the chef’s point of view. I didn’t walk into The Charter Oak, Christopher Kostow’s restaurant in St. Helena, Calif., dreaming of wood-fired turnips and rye porridge, but the dish turned out to be a sleeper hit. The turnip was slow-...