Food

Togarashi and Horseradish Add Zip to Fried Brussels Sprouts

The pizzas at Michael Friedman's All Purpose Pizzeria are terrific—wonderfully thin, chewy crusts with toppings like giardiniera and 'nduja—but when I stopped in for lunch recently, it was a vegetable dish that made the greatest impression. The fried Brussels sprouts are a scene-stealer, thanks to a generous shake of togarashi spice and grated Parmesan, which give the tender-crisp sprouts a blast of umami. Thinly sliced chilies add some heat, while the preserved horseradish crema is both piquant and cooling. It's a nice balance to a cheesy pizza, while offering a ton of great textures and flavors.

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