Nicasio’s Stuffed Avocado Turns Mexican Tradition Inside Out
Nicasio Comedor in San Miguel de Allende (located in Central Mexico’s Guanajuato state) is one of those restaurants I dream of stumbling upon while vacationing. The food was vibrant, creative, and jazzed up with unexpected twists, while the warm, personable service made me feel like I was dining in someone’s home.
The venture is under the thoughtful guidance of chef-owners Pablo Nicacio (they decided an ‘s’ would look better than the second ‘c’ when naming the restaurant) and Hugo Tepichin, who met a decade ago while cooking in Mexico City. Their goal is to showcase their culinary culture using regional ingredients and the techniques of their homeland, while not staying melded to what’s traditionally considered Mexican food.
Their aguacate relleno (stuffed avocado) is one of their most beloved dishes–and a perfect encapsulation of their vision. Nicacio’s native state of Michoacán is the heart of the country’s Avocado Belt, which grows nearly half the avocados eaten around the world. However, he wanted to showcase the savory fruit alongside unconventional flavors and textures. Using half as a bowl, they line the bottom with slender slices of Serrano and fill it with creamy spinach amped up with Parmesan. On top is a smattering of locally sourced pancetta, surprisingly tossed in maple syrup. “I wanted something woody and smoky, not just sweet,” says Nicacio. “Plus, everyone loves bacon with maple, so this is an elegant twist.”
The results are rich and luxuriant, but full of freshness and zaps of spiciness. It’s the taste of Mexico of yesteryear and today.