Love Handle's Sandwich Turns Steak Tartare Into the Main Meal

At Indianapolis’ Love Handle, husband-wife team Chris and Ally Benedyk run a modest-looking lunch counter with a decidedly ambitious menu. Chris, one of the original employees at the city’s esteemed Goose the Market, commands a small, ever-changing selection of unabashedly meaty dishes and sandwiches, curing meats in-house and tinkering with offal to create offerings like pork heart prosciutto, braised beef tongue and a tartare sandwich.

That sandwich, dubbed the...