Food

Gnocchi Goes from Italy to Korea at Himitsu

Chef Kevin Tien of Washington, D.C.’s Himitsu has always been infatuated with pasta. Recognizing that it will take him years to become a master pasta maker, he came up with a clever workaround for one dish: he uses rice cakes instead of gnocchi. “To get them really pillowy, we soak them overnight in water,” he says. “That gives them a very soft texture.”

He...