Chefs to Watch 2014: Jonathan Wu, Fung Tu, New York City

I’m just trying to put my soul on a plate,” says Jonathan Wu of Fung Tu in New York City. He’s half-joking and fully aware of the earnestness-bordering-on-triteness of the statement. But here’s the thing: with Wu, and with Fung Tu, it’s absolutely true.

Nearly every dish on the menu at his small, intensely personal Lower East Side restaurant has a story...