At Atlanta’s Tiny Lou’s, Jeb Aldrich’s Kitchen is a Southern Ode to France

When the Hotel Clermont opened in Atlanta last year, it was the result of more than six years of work and $30 million spent refurbishing the former Clermont Motor Hotel, best known for its iconic Clermont Lounge, Atlanta’s first and longest continually operating strip club, beloved by locals and Anthony Bourdain alike.

Key to transforming a no-tell motel into a hip property that draws...