In Pursuit of Pasta Perfection

Staffan Terje has been focused on perfecting his pasta since he moved to the U.S. from Europe in the 1980’s. At San Francisco’s Perbacco, he offers eight to 10 pastas per night, including two Piemontese specialties, an agnolotti dal plin that he fills with veal, pork, rabbit, and Savoy cabbage, and a tajarin served with a meat and mushroom sugo. He sells around 6,000 orders of pasta a month; most made from...